Navigation Area
[ top ]
|
Content Area
Ask Alan Archive Page 14
K80 Opening on Top Barrel Harry Wiley - 19:30 10/06/2002
A discussion on one of the US forums discussed a K80 that was opening when the top barrel was selected.
Some of the commenters said that shooting in rain can cause this, and one other suggested that the top latch be left dry of lubricant, as lubrication can cause opening.
I clean and lubricate my K80 top latch frequently and never had it open either barrel.
Please comment on shooting in the wet and lubrication of the top latch area.
Thanks
Re: K80 Opening on Top Barrel Alan - 19:43 10/06/2002
Without seeing the gun in question it is hard to say what was causing this problem. The clue I have is that the lever is opening only when the top barrel was selected. That is if I read you correctly. In this case I could bet that the problem is badly fitting barrels and that the headspace is excessive, especially on the top barrel. Too much headspace means that the fired case slams back into the breech face. The movement is tiny but the force with which the case impacts is impressive. this momentum has to go somewhere and in this case it seems that it is being transferred to the top latch which is then sliding back on the rails. One thing is for sure and that is the problem is not caused by rain, excessive lubrication or lack of lubrication. A K-80 with perfectly fitting barrels and all other lock components in good order will not suffer from this problem. What does cause the problem is badly fitting barrels, usually because a shooter has found a used pair that go on the receiver and are judged to fit. the only evidence for a good fit being that they go on and the gun goes bang when the trigger is pulled.
Other possible causes are a weak or broken top lever spring or incorrectly filed barrel wings.
Please note that the barrel wings need lubrication every time you shoot. If you neglect this you will find that the top latch puts some wear on them which is expensive to repair.
The Classic Fitasc Bill Laville - 12:46 14/07/2002
Dear Alan,
Just a quick one to ask is there any information as to if or when this years Classic F.I.T.A.S.C. sponsored by Krieghoff, is going ahead?. It mentioned several month's ago in pull magazine, that the dates and venue would be published the following month. To date nothing heard, or have I missed something?
Re: The Classic Fitasc Alan Rhone - 07:43 15/07/2002
The Krieghoff Classic FITASC will be held on Sat/Sun September 28th and 29th at High Lodge. there will be full details in the next issue of Clay Shooting. Sorry for the delay in announcing this but we have struggled with both a date and venue this year. We had intended that the shoot be held over three days but due to the late date we decided that it would have to be restricted to two days. This means we will have to limit entries quite severely as there will not be enough daylight to get the shoot finished if we do not. John Bidwell assures us that there will be no repeat of the K-80 layout last year when the wind made some of the targets almost unshootable. Look forward to seeing you there.
Re: The Classic Fitasc Bill Laville - 11:54 15/07/2002
Great news to hear The Krieghoff Classic FITASC will be held in September, and at High Lodge, definately one of my favorite grounds, for good targets and a friendly atmosphere. Look forward to seeing you there. "I will own a kreighoff yet!".
Barrel convergence Rick del Monte - 01:25 22/07/2002
Alan, I was wondering if you might clarify for me how Kreighoff test barrel convergence. My new 30" barrels shot the lower barrel 2" to 3" low at 20 yards with the #4 barrel hanger, so the folks at Ottsville sent a me a couple of new hangers to try out and the #2 seemed to print both barrels dead on at 20 yards. This weekend I decided to pattern them at 40 yards and found out that at that distance my lower barrel is shooting 4" to 6" higher than the upper barrel.
This has led me to believe that perhaps Kreighoff set the barrel convergence for 40 yards, which would leave the lower a barrel a bit low at 20 yards. Does this make sense? I may go back to the #3 hanger which should be a good compromise for Sporting and Skeet. It seems the more I test for POI and barrel convergence the more confused I get. Any insights would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rick
Re: Barrel convergence Alan - 08:08 22/07/2002
All Krieghoff guns and barrels are pattern tested before they leave the factory and Sporting barrels are set up to pattern both to the same point of impact at 35 metres (38.1/4 yds). In the instance of 30" choke tubed barrels that will be a #4 hanger 99% of the time. I would expect a #2 hanger to raise the point of impact about 6" which is what you have found. Now trust me on what I say next - if your gun is patterning high at 40 yds it is not patterning low at 20. The laws of physics say this just can't be so. It is difficult to pattern test a shotgun for point of impact as it has to be done off-hand and the potential for error is there right from the start. When we shoot at a pattern plate it is quite different than shooting at a moving target and a flinch is always just around the corner. From my own observations I would say that about one in 25 shooters can consistently centre a shot at a pattern plate and even then they will call about one in four as pulled off before they even go to look. This is not to say that you cannot hit a pattern plate but the two sets of results you obtained tell me that something went wrong, probably on the first test.
You have to remember that all shotgun barrels will vary in point of impact depending on temperature and and other factors. Different cartridges will shoot to different points of impact just as different batches of rifle ammo do. In fact the K-80's separated barrels mean that it is probably the most consistent gun pattern wise out there. The bottom barrel is free to expand as it heats up and this alone prevents the pattern climbing as the day progresses.
My advice is to put the #4 in and just shoot the gun - if it is right at 40 yds then it will be right at every other distance. In any event we are not talking about a rifle here and a couple of inches from centre in the spread of a shotgun pattern is no big deal.
Re: Barrel convergence Rick del Monte - 18:31 22/07/2002
Alan, thank you for the reply. I am a former competitive rifle shooter, have a very good facility at my club for patterning, and I will run at least three sets of three shots from each barrel to confirm the impact point, so I am pretty comfortable with my methodology. Having said this, I think I will take your advice and put the #4 hanger in and just go shoot the gun. I am tired of worrying about POI.
Thanks,
Rick
Re: Barrel convergence Alan - 19:24 22/07/2002
Hi Rick,
How are you conducting your pattern test as the methology for a shotgun is different from what you would do with a rifle. I don't doubt your abiity to carry out a thorough test but it is impossible for a shotgun barrel to shoot low at 20yds but high at 40 when firing small shot. That is assuming that the normal K-80 rib is fitted and there is no elevated sighting system. The conclusion is that something went wrong with the pattern testing and I will be interested to hear how the next test goes.
Best regards,
Alan
Re: Barrel convergence Rick del Monte - 18:41 23/07/2002
Alan, if I just look at this as a geometry problem, then assuming the lower barrel is 1-1/2" below the upper one, a barrel which converges at 40 yards would have the lower barrel shooting 3/4" low at 20 yards (probably undetectable in real life), and a barrel which shoots 6" high at 40 yards should have the lower barrel 2-1/4" high at 20 yards. Since this does not match what I found, then I agree that something is wrong with my testing. I just don't know how to do it any better. I will let you know what I find with the #4.
Regards,
Rick
Re: Barrel convergence Rick del Monte - 22:10 01/09/2002
Alan, I went back and ordered the two additionak hangers again and ran the tests at both 20 and 40 yards (the first time I only tested at 20 yards), compared to the upper barrel;
-the #4 hanger was low at 20 yards, and lower at 40 yards.
-the #2 hanger was a little high at 20 yards, but very high at 40 yards.
- the #3 hanger was pretty much right on at both 20 and 40 yards.
I think I have now carried this exercise to its logical conclusion, and I am now ready to shoot the gun and forget about barrel convergence.
Regards,
Rick
Re: Barrel convergence Alan - 21:42 09/09/2002
Glad you have it sorted out now. Your results are in line with what I would expect. The factory pattern test every barrel and fit the hanger in line with what they find. Typically this will be a number 4 with screw choke barrels but sometimes a 3 or 5. Don't know why yours came with a 4 but it may be that it shot slightly differently with different ammo. Anyway, you are sorted now so that is ok.
Cleaning howells34 - 07:34 23/07/2002
My son and I are regular shooters and I clean the guns after every shoot. Recently after a couple of 200 bird events there were a couple of specks(dirt, residue?) in the barrels that proved particularly stubborn to remove. The weather for both these shoots was quite warm. Any suggestions as how to easily remove these specks or to prevent them forming in the first place.
MANY THANKS TIM.
Re: Cleaning Alan - 08:20 23/07/2002
Hi Tim,
This is a bit difficult without actually seeing the marks but from what you describe I am guessing these specs are propellent residue. If that is so then I am also guessing that the cartridges you use have a type of flake powder although the same residue could be left by one or two other powder types I can think of. Very few powders are completely consumed during the burn I have experienced residue from flake type powders baking onto the bore walls, especially in the chamber area where the pressure seems to "weld" it to the wall. Typically this will only be one or two specs but they can be the devil to move. Since I changed my cleaning method a few years ago I have not noticed this problem at all so it might prove the solution for you. These days I do not clean my barrels when I return home after the shoot. Instead I spay a good powder solvent down each bore - a squirt from breech and muzzle ends - and then I stand the gun muzzles down on a rag in the gun cupboard. A few days later I simply wipe the bore through and all the residue comes out clean. It is very seldom that there is anything remaining and if there is a quick scrub takes it out. The solvent I use is 009 in an aerosol which was made by Parker Hale. John Rothery Wholesale have now taken on the Parker Hale brand and they tell me that the 009 aerosol will continue in the range.
Please note that I do clean the rest of the gun immediately on returning home, wiping over the outside of the barrels and removing the used grease etc. It is only the bores I leave to the solvent and it works for me with no rust or marks in the bores whatsoever.
As for how to prevent the marks in the first place, I can only suggest that you try a different cartridge brand. chose something that uses a different propellent and see if you still get the problem.
Congratulations on you excellent shooting at the Welsh Open; that was a very impressive performance.
Alan
Rick del Monte - 02:43 03/08/2002
Alan, I own a K-80 and a Perazzi MX-8 and they are both superb target guns. I was wondering why it seems like every other high end maker in Italy and Spain makes an imitation MX-8, some like the Kemen are so close that you almost have to read the engraving to tell them apart. However since Kreighoff took and developed the original Remington 32 design, nobody else seems to have adopted the K-80 design. Clearly this is not due to lack of performance. Kolar has come the closest with their adjustable barrel hanger and similar balance, but a very different receiver. Is the K-80 just that difficult/expensive to manufacture? In many ways this is an advantage since it makes the K-80 so distinctive, but it has left me curious.
Thanks,
Rick
Clones Alan - 08:11 03/08/2002
Rick, to get the answer to your question you would really need to visit the Krieghoff factory in Ulm, Germany ; you would understand immediately. the K-80 requires an amazing amount of hand work; quite surprising for a modern competition gun. All of the K-80 gunsmiths undergo years of training before they can work on your gun. Sure the factory is equipped with the very latest in CNC equipment but there is no getting away from the skill and hand work needed to build the gun. No one in their right mind would attempt to set up to build a K-80 clone for this reason.
Bending a stock Rick del Monte - 02:54 16/08/2002
Alan, my K-80 has an adjustable stock which I have adjusted so the gun shoots where I am looking. However the stock is a left handed model with a fair amount of cast on (bent towards my face), which I compensate for by moving the comb to the right. Can this stock be bent back to at least neutral? Would the folks at Ottsville do this? I know I should call Dieter, but it is usually 10:00 pm when my day slows down enough to think of more enjoyable things like shooting, plus you are such a great source for Kreighoff knowledge.
Thanks,
Rick
PS; it's good to see your column in the new Clayshooting USA magazine.
Re: Bending a stock Alan - 09:19 16/08/2002
Your stock can be altered by Krieghoff International easily. they will either make some adjustment to the heading to bring the body of the stock into line or bend it using the hot oil method. It depends on how much change of direction you need. They have a stock bending setup at Ottsville and the experience to use it so you have no worries.
Thanks for the comment about the column in Clay Shooting USA - I wasn't too happy with the first one but hopefully I will improve as I get into it.
Rohm 22 pistol Jeff Hoffman - 03:03 20/08/2002
Alan,
I have been trying to find information on a Rohm 22 pistol. It shoots 22 shorts only, I have not been able to find any info on this gun anywhere. If you have any information on it I would sure like to know about it.
Thanks, Jeff
Re: Rohm 22 pistol Alan - 08:02 20/08/2002
I don't know anything about the Rohm pistol personally, never having seen one, but searching Google for "Rohm .22 pistol" quickly found a number of links. It is a German pistol and so I modified the search to inlude this information and found a lot of info. Quoted below is what I found on one site:
"The Rohm company (Rohm GmbH of Sontheim/Brenz West Germany) produced a large range of pistols under their own name, and then sold them under a dozen other names as well, most of these names were for American export sales in the days prior to the gun control Act of 1968. The passage of the 1968 gun Control act, with its restrictions on pistol dimensions, severely curtailed the importation of Rohm pistols into the United States and many of the sales names promptly ceased to exist. In addition to cheap revolvers, Rohm produced starting pistols, gas pistols and alarm pistols for the U.S. marketplace during the late 1960s, this is probably the reason that your revolver reminds you of a starting pistol. Rohm revolvers are usually identifiable by a round medallion in the grip carrying 'RG' and the model number. Rohm values fall in the $25.00 or less range. If you intend to fire this revolver I would strongly advise you to have it checked by a competent gunsmith first."
For more information put the full manufacturers name as above into Google.
Alan
Numberplate Christian - 19:56 13/09/2002
Hi Alan,
ULM K80 - or K80 ULM ... is that you???
I drove from Friedrichshafen Airport up to Dornsberg two weeks ago and had that car in front of me somewhere...
I thought it has to be you ...
Christian
Germany
Re: Numberplate Alan - 20:42 13/09/2002
Hi Christian,
K80 ULM on a midnight blue SAAB 9-5 estate, that is me. We drove to Dornsberg from the UK via the channel tunnel and got caught up in traffic between Stuttgart and Dornsberg. the return journey home was perfect though, left 7:00 and in the house by 21:30, partly thanks to the gained hour crossing the channel.
Good guess on your part but you would be surprised how many "K80" plates there are amongst the shooting fraternity here in the UK.
Best regards,
Alan
Gun grease Rick del Monte - 02:29 25/09/2002
Alan, I wonder if you could address one of the burning issues in shotgun sports; what gun grease to use. I had been using K-gun Glide, but I found that STOS grease seemed to provide a smoother functioning. Recently I shot with one of the Kreighoff factory shooters here and he swore by a product called CMD grease, which he said had been suggested to him by one of the Kreighoff gunsmiths. Do you have a favorite lubricant? Have you found the type of grease to make a difference in gun wear if the grease is cleaned off and replaced after every use?
Thank you for your insights,
Rick
Re: Gun grease Alan - 09:02 25/09/2002
The brand name is not important but the grease must be suitable for the intended purpose. Grease on the hinge screw and knuckle areas must be "load bearing" and not all products are. I am familiar with STOS and I believe I am right when I say that it is a case lubricant for helping stuck brass come out of a re-loading press. It is not gun grease in the sense that this is not its primary purpose. Smoothness in operation does not indicate suitability, the test is how it stands up in all temperatures over a long competition. The properties you are looking for in a gun grease are load bearing, as previously mentioned; resistant to high temperatures so that it does not run out of the joint on a hot day; waterproof, so that it is not washed out. The Gun Glide is all of these things as it has been specifically chosen by Krieghoff to be so but there are other suitable products on the market. We provide the same product under a different name in the UK and it is ideal. My personal opinion is that if you have a product recommended by the manufacturer that is conveniently packaged why look for something else. At least if you use their product they can never say you used the wrong type of grease. One important point to note is that you must remove the old grease after shooting and apply new fresh grease before beginning the next shoot. Grease left in place will collect airborne dust and combine to make a pretty good grinding paste. Apply sparingly; it is not necessary to use half a tube per shoot.
Re: Gun grease Rick del Monte - 02:12 26/09/2002
Alan, thanks for the insights. I had not heard of STOS for reloading, now I will have a use for it. I will just stick with the K-Gun Glide, I certainly have enough tubes of it. I assume this is the same product that you advertize on your site as Schmierfix, I can see why they changed the name. In another ten years I will write to let you know how the gun held up ;-)
I do take apart my guns after shooting and clean out the old grease. On the K-80 this is very easy to do, with the design of the MX-8 it requires a q-tip to clean the grease out of the nooks and crannies.
Thanks,
Rick
Gun Grease Harry Wiley - 22:00 26/09/2002
Alan--I think you need to make sure that the US K Glide is the same as the UK. The US formerly was an amber colored material very much like STOS. Now the US product is a white, watery/oily material that inspires little confidence with me. While STOS may be sold by a reloader manufacturer, it sure seems to work better than the US K Glide.
Indeed, none of the Krieghoff gunsmiths I have seen work use the white/watery/oily material. They all use material that looks like STOS, even though it may not be the same.
I do not understand why KI stopped packaging the amber grease of about two years ago and substituted this other material. Maybe you do.
I really enjoyed visiting with you and staff at Dornsberg and the factory. Hope to see you again somewhere. Maybe Kansas? Take care.
Harry Wiley
Re: Gun Grease Alan - 22:36 26/09/2002
I do know that the Gun glide was changed a couple of years ago. the old grease apparently used to become very liquid on hot days and I have a good friend who can vouch for that and the difficulty in removing stain from the front of his pants! The new grease has, I am told, better load bearing properties no matter what it may look like. We actually have two types of grease in the UK, one of which is white in colour. both work fine but I am assured by the experts that the white grease holds up better under load. We keep both to satisfy customers. Tradition can take a while to let go you know. I still go with the idea that if Krieghoff sell and recommend the grease for their products then it has to be the one to use.
Good to meet you at Dornsberg and later at Ulm. I enjoyed the week - good weather and good company. Takes some beating doesn't it? I really do hope to make it to Kansas.
Alan
Chambermates Rick del Monte - 03:38 23/10/2002
Alan, I don't know if you have seen Chambermates in England yet, but they are short sub-gauge tubes held in with an O-ring. I bought a 20 gauge set, and they worked amazingly well in the MX-8, throwing some very nice patterns. I tried to put them in the K-80 and they would not work. It appears that the face of the K-80 monobloc is not vertical, but slopes away from the receiver face at the bottom barrel. The rim of the Chambermate portrudes from the monobloc and does not allow the gun to close. This is a new barrel fitted by Kreighoff International, so I don't think it is out of spec. Have you run across this problem with other non-fitted tubes? I am going to call Seminole, but they did not think there would be a problem using Chambermates with a K-80.
Regards,
Rick
Re: Chambermates Alan - 06:04 23/10/2002
Hi Rick,
I have seen the Chambermates as well as the Briley Sidekicks and Rhino Stingers. All work in the K-80 but you may need some slight modification in some cases. The bottom barrel of the K-80 is angled slightly and this is a part of the design so no problem there. Using Chambermates is no different to using the full length tube inserts and I am sure you have seen many of those used successfully in K-80s.
All that is required is to put a slight lead on the bottom edge of the bottom barrel Chambermate. Easiest way to do this is the remove the barrels and insert the Chambermate. Push it in flush and check that it is sitting below or flush with the face of the barrels except for the bottom edge. Please note that if the rim of the chambermate is above the barrel face on either barrel then the gun will not close. In this case it is because the rim of the insert is too thick. You could have the rim made deeper on your K-80 but do not do this as it will increase recoil.
Having checked that the inserts fit flush you now need to put a lead on the bottom edge to match the angle of the barrel. You will probably not need to file it away completely flush as once it has a lead it will probably allow the gun to close. Just do it a little at a time and stop when the gun closes easily.
The inserts from some makers have a very thin rim that allows the insert to sit low in the rim but I would personally prefer a flush fit as the rim of the cartridge is supported better and you should have more reliable ejection.
The fact that your barrels are newly fitted means that they are tight on the face and you have no tolerance other than that provided by the rim.
Add a lead and you should have no more trouble.
Alan
Re: Chambermates Rick del Monte - 16:11 23/10/2002
Alan, thank you for the suggestion. Last night I was looking closely at the Chambermates, and just as you said, the bottom rim sticks out. I measured the rim on the Chambermate and it was .058", while the rim on the B&P shells that I use are .052", so it should not take a lot to get the rim to work.
Thank you,
Rick
ejecters William Hairsine - 13:20 25/10/2002
Dear Alan
How come Krieghoff ejecters are quite weak
From
William
Ejectors Alan - 21:29 25/10/2002
Hi William,
I don't agree that Krieghoff ejectors are weak and I should know as I have to fix them when they break. The old style ejectors as fitted to the K-32 and early K-80s did break at the back end from time to time but even so I see a lot of early guns with original ejectors still going strong. With the new style ejectors used in the K-80 today I see very few breakages. there will always be some failure because of the nature of the part, this is true of other makers as well as Krieghoff. Ejectors cannot be too brittle but they have to be hard enough to take a repeated blow from the ejector kicker without snapping or deforming. It is a tough job to get both the material and hardness exactly right. Today I think we do a pretty good job.
The other thing you have to consider is that if an ejector breaks on a K-80, here in the UK, we replace it free under warranty. That kind of softens the blow don't you think?
I am assuming from your question that you have a broken extractor so give me a call and lets get it fixed.
Alan
Gun Licence James - 18:18 27/10/2002
Hey
How do I and what is the quickest way to get my Gun Licence for my shotgun? Please can I have some Contact information?
Many thanks
James
Re: Gun Licence Alan - 20:25 27/10/2002
Hello James,
There is no "quickest way" to get a shotgun certificate. first of all you need to obtain an application form from your local Police Station. You then complete the form and take it, with the licence fee, back to your local Police Station. You then sit back and wait for a visit from the officer responsible for following up licence applications. This may be very soon or it can take a few weeks. When you are visited you will be interviewed as to your reasons for owning a shotgun and the provision you will make for safe storage. You will almost certainly be expected to provide a secure gun cabinet, firmly attached to the fabric of the building. It will need to be inside the main house and outbuildings are usually not accepted. I would not rush out and buy a cabinet until you have been visited as you need to be sure that everything else is acceptable and you will receive advice on type of cabinet and location.
Please note that you should be polite and courteous in your dealings with the Police. They have a job to do and that is to ensure that a shotgun does not end up in the hands of someone not fit to own one. It pays to be open and answer any questions honestly. Unfortunately, some Police Foreces do try to go further than the law allows and have been known to make unreasonable demands on applicants; the purpose of which seems to be to discourage the application. If you do not have a criminal record it is your right to be granted a shotgun certificate. You do not have to belong to a gun club and Clay Target Shooting is a good enough reason to apply for a Shotgun Certificate. As competitions and practice are run by many clubs all over the country for the benefit of non-members it is clear that a membership is not a requirement. you will probably have no problem but if you do come across what seem to be unreasonable demands come back to me and I can advise where you can go for support in your application.
Alan
Stocks & Forend Trevor - 20:41 27/10/2002
I have a K80. I see that upgraded stocks are available. I would like to know if it is possible to buy a matched high grade stock & forend, but cannot find forends in the website?
Re: Stocks & Forend Alan - 21:22 27/10/2002
You aren't looking! I just checked our web site and both stocks and forearms are listed separately as well as matched sets. Anyway, to answer your question you can buy a matched set but please note that the stock will require minor heading up and the forearm will need fitting to your iron. This is work that any good stocker could do easily but I would recommend that you have us do it so that you have warranty cover. We cannot take responsibility for someone else's work. Another plus is that we do not charge for fitting a new stock and forearm to your existing gun. Please note that high grade wood is getting increasingly difficult to find and we do not always have wood that we can spare. This does depend on the grade you require and the stock style.
William's ejector question BarryHairsine - 10:01 31/10/2002
I think William was refering "ejector power" and not the metallurgical strength of Krieghoff ejectors.I had pointed out to him that Krieghoff ejectors are relatively "short throw" compared to some guns which can eject cartridges onto adjacent shooting stands.
Re: William's ejector question Alan - 14:42 31/10/2002
Hi Barry,
That is fine. I agree that the ejectors are not especially powerful compared with some guns and that is due to the design. The K-80 has a short throw and very little primary extraction so the cases do not go flying off into space when you open the gun. As you normally rely on the shot load to break the clay, rather than the empty case, I do not consider that a defect. Strong ejectors make the gun harder to close and put more strain on the ejector itself. As ejector breakage is common amongst all guns any reduction in service load is a plus. I can think of a number of plus Points for weaker ejectors but cannot think of any minus points. you may occassionally have to pull out a partially ejected case but is that a problem?
Alan
Trigger work Rick del Monte - 03:30 01/11/2002
Alan, Kreighoffs have the reputation as having the best triggers in the business. But the other day as I was shooting patterns and squeezing the trigger like a rifle's, I realized that my trigers have some creep to them and are not crisp at all. This gun is about 10 years old, and I am wondering if the triggers can be brought back to new condition? Does it involve new parts or just honing the existing ones? Trigger work is something I would only trust you or Norbert at Kreighoff Int. to take care of, but unfortunately Alan, you are a bit far away. However your advice is always appreciated.
Regards,
Rick
Re: Trigger work Alan - 08:27 01/11/2002
Hi Rick,
A shotgun trigger is not supposed to be like the proverbial "glass rod" of a rifle. Sure it is possible to make them like that but it is not likely to improve your shooting. As a general rule the factory set the trigger pulls on Sporting Clays models of the K-80 with a little creep in both sears. This is because Sporting Clays shooters often switch barrel selectors and it is important that both triggers feel the same. Sporting Clays is unlike Trap and it is normal for a shooter to acquire the target and stay with it for a moment before firing. If the triggers are too crisp the gun will fire early causing a miss behind. Trapshooters tend to fire at the instant they come onto the target and for this reason the first barrel pull on a Trap model is set a little crisper. Here in the UK where we use both barrels at Trap we set the first pull crisp but the second with some creep, simply because people shoot better that way.
Now, here is the important part. The settings I refer to are what accumulated experience indicate works best for the majority of shooters. If your personal preference is for a crisper pull it is not a problem for the gunsmiths at KI to do this for you.We do exactly this in the UK and look on it in the same way as minor custom work. Just be aware that crisper triggers may not improve your shooting.
Alan
Re: Trigger work Rick del Monte - 16:09 01/11/2002
Alan, I always learn something new when reading your responses. My gun is set up pretty much as you describe, crisp on the bottom barrel, creep on the upper barrel. I must confess that until I shot it as a rifle I would have told you that the triggers felt great, and seldom went off when I didn't want them to. My MX-8 has very crisp triggers and they do go off early sometimes, I had just assumed that it was because the K-80 is my favotite gun and I shoot it much more. I know as shooters we are always searching for that extra little edge that will make a difference, but I think this time I should just leave well enough alone.
Thanks,
Rick
Re: Trigger work Alan - 17:43 01/11/2002
Rick, you are very welcome but remember, the beauty of the K-80 trigger system is that we can do just about anything we like with it. We can make the triggers crisp or not, we can change the selection speed, anything to exactly match your shooting style. That is the real strength of the design and the people who build and service the gun.
Rematch of forearm irons on a K-80. Barry Hairsine - 12:42 09/11/2002
Dear Alan,
I was wondering if it would be possible to re-unite the forearm iron [no.20355] matched to my lightweight receiver [no.21002] with it's original receiver and simultaneously acquire forearm iron no.21002..I suspect the crossover took place some years ago,when there was an exchange of lightweight for steel receiver.If the relevant owner is interested,perhaps he/she would be kind enough to contact you.
Best wishes,
Barry.
Re: Rematch of forearm irons on a K-80. Alan - 13:45 09/11/2002
Hi Barry,
I checked our records and we don't know the owner of the other K-80. We do add every gun that we come across with owner details but it seems we have not seen that one yet.
Hopefully the owner, or someone who knows the gun, will see your posting and get in touch. It would certainly be to mutual benefit to reunite forearms and receivers.
If I come across that nimber I will mention your interest to the owner.
<< Previous - Page: [ 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 ] - Next >>
[ top ]
|
